Monday, August 19, 2013

Homeward Bound


This is my last blog post! I cannot believe my time in Madagascar is coming to a close!  I took my last taxi brousse ride, and I have to say nothing makes you feel more Malagasy than when you are crammed into a brousse so tightly that don’t quite make the seat.  You end up doing a chair exercise for a couple hours, and you are guaranteed a mixed aroma of fish, body odor and oranges.  I know I will miss these moments!

It has been a great past couple weeks with mom visiting!   We went on a tour of the north and did so much in the time we were given.  I am so thankful that she was able to visit.  It has been so great being able to share this wonderful experience together.  We were able to see the Tsingy Rouge, Ankarana National Reserve, Amber Mountains and Ramena.  We saw every from chameleons to lemurs. Our trip ended in Nosy Be, an island off of Madagascar.  The tsingy are these amazing rock formations that are unique to Madagascar, and are quite a natural wonder.  My mom and I spent most of our time hiking and relaxing.  It was also great to visit some of the beaches in the north.  It was great to put my work aside for 2 weeks and simply enjoy the beauty of Madagascar and live the “mora mora” (means slowly slowly) Malagasy way of life.  The place we stayed at in Nosy Be was absolutely gorgeous and the food was wonderful.  We were also able to scuba dive and saw sea turtles, stingrays and some huge colorful fish! 

During our time in Nosy Be, we ended up staying there longer than expected because we couldn’t a flight out right away.  It ended being a blessing in disguise because I got really sick again.   It was similar to last time where I suddenly get fever and then loss of appetite.  I then got a horrible headache that is definitely not like a typical migraine.  I would say it was the worst headache I have ever had. I ended up getting so dehydrated from the vomiting the doctor put I.V. fluids in me in my hotel room, which freaked my poor mom out.  All I can say is that medicine is a little different in Madagascar.  I was in and out of sleep during that time and did not know all that was going on.  The doctor treated me for malaria, and I got so much better when I was able to keep down the medicine!  I wasn’t treated for malaria the first time I got sick because the doctor told me that my malaria prophylaxis was preventing me from getting it.  I tried to say that you can still get it despite taking the prophylaxis, but he still do anything about it.  I was thankful the doctor in Nosy Be knew this and treated me, because I felt so much better after completing the treatment. 

Because I got so sick the insurance is paying for me to come home ten days earlier with my mom so that I can get checked out in the U.S.  As I have learned during my time in Madagascar, there is hardly a medical system and you are better off having a doctor come to your room than going to the hospital.  I am sad to leave early but feel like it is the best thing to do.  I feel a peace about everything, and am thankful for God’s presence in all of this.  I am so thankful that my mom was there with me during that time as well.  If I was going to get sick, I got sick at the perfect time.  I don’t know what would have happened if I was by myself!  All I could think about when I was sick was if this is what malaria is then how do the villagers get through it?  How can the villagers travel 15 or more kilometers to visit the clinic when they are sick like this?  I could barely move!  Or how can they take the malaria medicine when I cannot even keep it down?  It definitely put a whole new perspective to my clinical experience in Maventibao. 

My mom and I leave today for home.  I am looking forward to going home but am sad to leave this beautiful country.  I am so thankful to visit and to have lived here for 4 months, and I hope to one-day return to Madagascar.  I would love to visit Maventibao again.  It will always have a special place in my heart.  I miss the people there so much already!

Thank you everyone that has been praying.  I am so, so thankful! It means so much to me.  And thank you for reading my blog!

Saturday, July 6, 2013

Step by Step....


Maventibao
The Clinic
Some of the children in the village.  So eager and so curious!
My hut!  It has been such a wonderful home.


Just as I think I am getting into the routine of life here in the village, I find myself in a situation where all I can do is call out to God for his guidance and grace.  The two volunteer doctors left 4 weeks ago.  Because I have been shadowing them in the past 4 weeks and have just been recording down the diagnosis and treatment of the patients, I began to wonder if I would have much of a role in the clinic when they left.  I thought that maybe I would work in the clinic again when the next volunteer doctor comes, since it would just be extra work for Nono to translate everything.  I just assumed that the full-time nurse at the clinic would take over until then.  Silly me.   Little did I know that when the doctors left I would be considered the closest one to a “doctor”.  My role went from just being an observer and a recorder to being considered as an actual “doctor”.  Because I am not even close to being as qualified as an actual doctor, I really was not at all expecting this and was in every way shocked.  Kristen, a biology grad, arrived a couple weeks after the two doctors left.  This softened the burden slightly as it has been great to have another person helping out in the clinic.  But she too, found herself in a similar position.

I began struggle with how unethical this is.  It is one thing when you are under the guidance of a doctor, and another when you are making the decisions as a doctor. I have been under the supervision of the nurse here at the clinic.  So I have not been completely on my own and I have definitely not been signing any of the patient history books (you have to be certified to do that).  Anyone in Madagascar can get access to medicine and there is no gateway system like there is in the U.S.  Basically if someone wanted to take codeine or Amoxicillin, they easily purchase it over the counter.

I prayed and prayed and soon realized that I do have some knowledge from my classes and reading that I have done, and especially by shadowing the doctors the past month.  Being aware of the symptoms of malaria and of some other very common parasitic diseases like shistosomiasis, which according to my readings 80% of the population is at risk and 1/3 is infected, I learned has been beneficial to know.  I can offer some insight,  but that is it.  I refuse to take on the name "doctor".  The quality of healthcare one receives should not be defined by one's economic status.  My dream, as it has been for years, is to become a missionary doctor.  Until then, I am simply an untrained intern.

Interning in the clinic can sure be difficult at times and I have learned to take things step-by-step.  It is difficult working in a rural setting; there is only so much one can do.  Death is much more of a reality here, especially for babies.  Since I have been here, there have been two babies that have passed away.  The other day a four month old baby came in with fever.  The clinic does not have anything for a baby that young. And because I am not a doctor and have no medical knowledge on babies, all I can do is observe the situation.  The clinic was low on medicine as is and only had 400mg Ibuprofen coated pills.  There was nothing that the clinic could do except recommend a sponge bath or to take the baby to the hospital.  But going to the hospital is rarely an option.  Mada Clinics is trying to get the 4-by-4 fixed so we can take patients to the hospital if there is a medical emergency.  I learned first hand just how important the 4-by-4 is when I got word that the baby passed away the following morning.  It was absolutely devastating to hear and I have been thinking about that precious baby every single day.  

I have also realized that when in a rural area, you cannot expect to have certain things.  Necessities that you would expect in any health care setting, like having proper testing, are forced to be luxuries that the clinic does not have the adequate funding to expend. The clinic has come such a long ways though, and I can go on and on about how much it has blessed the villagers.  For instance, everyone in Maventibao has at least 1-2 mosquito nets and everyone is provided with toothbrushes and toothpaste.  Mada Clinics offers free primary school school education to the kids in the surrounding villages.  Mada Clinics is working towards providing the kids with secondary education, but that of course is not an easy endeavor.  It cost the equivalence of $150 per month for a child to go to Diego Suarez for secondary school.  I pray that this beautiful opportunity that come to formation.

Even though the things you see are not easy, I am so thankful to have the opportunity to work with this organization.  Mada Clinics is a registered Madagascar NGO and is the only known non-profit organization that offers free healthcare. This is huge being that the majority of the people make less than $2 a day.  People have traveled 200 kilometers just to get free healthcare because it would be far cheaper to travel the distance than go to their local doctor. The nearest hospital is 2 hours away by taxi brousse.  And if you live in Maventibao, you have to hike 9 kilometers to the nearest village that the taxi brousse stops at.  People come to the clinic because it is their only option. 

On Wednesday and Friday we have walking clinics.  These are very tiring, especially the Friday clinic.  We have breakfast at 6:30 and then head out on a 10-kilometer hike to a village called Matsara.  In Matsara, there are about 45 patients in a day.  We typically get back to Maventibao around 8 pm after hiking 10 kilometers back up the mountain.  

Although it is tiring, it is more so emotionally draining because it is simply heartbreaking in what you see.  For instance, a mother brought her son and daughter in.  Her daughter was gaunt and emaciated.  To put it in perspective, she was 7 years old and was the same size as her 4-year-old brother, who was also very thin and looked like he had kwashiorkor.  On top of that she had diarrhea and vomiting for 5 days.  Not only was she malnourished, she was extremely dehydrated.  We gave her oral rehydration therapy immediately and gave both of them multivitamins.  We encouraged the little boy to eat a lot of beans, the only protein-rich food available.

Multivitamins and iron/folic acid supplements are something I feel comfortable handing out.  They are not potentially harmful, like antibiotics can be, but are immensely beneficial. I have read that 7 out of 10 women in the Antsiranana province are anemic.  And 40% of the population is under the age of 15, that means that there is a large percentage of women that pregnant and/or breastfeeding. Multivitamins and iron/folic acid supplements can make a huge difference during pregnancy, especially in the 3rd trimester and the following few months after birth.  And I have to say thank goodness there is the British National Formulary that one of the volunteers left behind. It has been a great reference tool.

I have realized that it is especially difficult to know what to do when a pregnant mother has symptoms of a S.T.I.  All I can do in those situations is strongly encourage the new mother to visit a doctor and get tested so that she can get the proper treatment. But I know that is not always an option because it is expensive.

Most cases seen in the clinic are not severe and are mostly acute respiratory infections, S.T.I.s, U.T.I.s or toothaches.  In addition to needing a doctor or nurse, a dentist is just as needed.  I have learned a toothache is never simply a cavity.  A 25-year-old woman came into the clinic with a toothache. The center of her tooth had eroded to the gums.  There was literally a hole in her tooth.  There have been children that have come in with toothaches and their teeth have already begun to erode.  It is very sad to see. Dental hygiene is almost non-existent in Madagascar, at least in the rural villages.  Visiting a dentist is not an easy endeavor and there is, at least from what I can tell, little education on dental hygiene.  But it is extremely important because not extracting the tooth and cleaning the gum can lead to a dental abscess, which in worse case scenario can spread to the brain and cause encephalitis.  Recently I went to the main supermarket in Diego because i needed dental floss, only to realize that it was $10.  This was disappointing, mostly because I knew that obviously the majority the population does not have access to simple things like dental floss....something that I easily take for granted in the U.S.

I have been to the two different hospitals in Diego in past couple days.  Those visits alone were quite interesting.  I went to the main hospital in Diego because there was because there was a man who came to the clinic with massive swelling in his arm and a woman who had a severe ear infection and was blacking out.  They both seemed serious and since Nono and I were going to town that day I told them they could come with us and go to the hospital.  Last night a group of us went to the Military Hospital because one of the volunteers was ill.  They gave her systematic relief but did not give a diagnosis, which was interesting.  She is feeling better now, thank goodness! 

Although it has been overwhelming, there have been many exciting things that have happened in the village this past month, like the huge Independence Day celebration.  I also still feel as though I am walking in a postcard when I hike to the stream for water or to do my laundry.  The scenery never gets old. I will end with a story of an amazing event that happened in the village. It simply show how prayer is so powerful.

It involves a young woman in Maventibao.  She is only 16 and in her 3rd trimester of pregnancy.  The young woman had a stillborn last year and was told by the doctor in the city that she needs to have a cesarean section for her next pregnancy.  Kristen, the other volunteer, and I really encouraged her to make arrangements with her family that live in city with the closest hospital.  Not only were the mama and the baby at high risk, Kristen and I are not doctors and we were the only volunteers in the village at this time.  Within the next few days she returned to clinic with a fever and bronchitis.  We continued to stress the urgency of going to the hospital, but when we got word that night that her water broke, it simply became no longer an option.  

So we spent hours into the night in her hut watching, waiting and praying.  It was really neat to see all the women come together and help her while she was in labor.  Ranopango (rice water) was passed around and the women worked together while she was in labor.  When her contractions were close enough for her to push, she began to push and push…. but the baby was not crowning.  The midwife and the women in the hut became concerned when the baby was not crowning after hours of pushing.  It was then, that the mother had no other option than to embark on the 9-kilometer hike down the mountain to catch a 2-hour taxi brousse ride to the nearest hospital.  I was so concerned for both the mama and the baby's health, because if the baby is not able descend through the birth canal, then both the mama and the baby are at a high risk of death.  Because the taxi brousses fill with as many people as they can and you can never fully depend on when they will arrive, Kristen and I agreed to pay for cost of hiring a 4 by 4 in Ambrondimafhey to drive her to the hospital.  As I was running to catch up and give the mother and giver her the money I was told that the baby crowned and the mother was giving birth. 

Thankfully, she walked only about 20 feet and the baby crowned and she gave birth to a gorgeous baby girl.  I was so relieved when the newborn began to cry that I started crying with tears of joy.  Praise God for a healthy baby and a healthy mama. The village, relieved as well, celebrated by killing a chicken.

Although I have a lot more to say, it is time to cap it off (definitely the longest blog yet!).  I have realized that it is in these ups and downs, heartbreaks and miracles, that I have sincerely felt God’s presence.  Also, hitting my head on my pillow at the end of the day has never felt so comforting.   I am taking the next week off so that I can catch up on my schoolwork.  I may or may not go to the beach for a nap...just taking things one step at a time. I am so thankful for everyone that has been supportive and has been praying for me!  It means so much. And thank you so much for reading my blog! :)

Saturday, June 1, 2013

The Adventures Continue....



Amber Mountains
A sacred waterfall in the Amber Mountains
I decided to decorate the inside of my hut :) 


The Tsingy Rouge!

I cannot believe that I have been in Madagascar for an entire month already!  It feels weird to be in Diego Suarez, where I have access to the Internet and a hot shower (I get a bucket a day for my bath in Maventibao). It was, as always, an adventure coming back to the city.  Our taxi brouse wasn’t filled to the brim with people but Elodie’s sleeping bag and Kut’s backpack did fly off of the top of the taxi brouse.  Luckily someone saw the items fly off.  I have to say it is always a relief when I see that my backpack has survived the ride. 

Two weeks ago I spent a three days in the Amber Mountains.   I was able to go hiking with two other volunteers, Adam and Kut, and my supervisor, Elodie.  We were determined to see as much as we could in the three days we had and hiked around 30 kilometers through the beautiful forest.  We saw everything from lemurs to giant trees uprooted and hanging from strangler figs.  I have to say my highlight was swinging on the giant vines and being able to hold the smallest chameleon in the world!  After getting 30 mosquito bites in one day (thank goodness for Malaria prophylaxis) and pulling leeches off of my shoes, I learned quickly how much more important it is to wear bug spray in the mountains!

I also am 99% certain there was a rabid dog where we were camping!  Kut and I would awake multiple times in the middle of the night to this absolutely awful growl (nothing close to any growl I have ever heard before) from one of the stray dogs at the campsite.  It would walk around half growling, half struggling to breathe, and then attack the other dogs and get into nasty fights.  One night the dog attacked another dog and landed right on top the tent where Elodie and I were sleeping.  Luckily we moved away just in time, as the fighting dogs landed right where our heads were!  

After hiking through the Amber Mountains and having multiple walking clinics the following week, I realized that I have hiked  around 80 kilometers!  I think it is the most I have ever hiked in such a short period of time!  I am getting used to the Maventibao lifestyle where you go to bed around 8:00pm, and get your first wake-up call at 5:00am.  The roosters never let you down.  The nights are beautiful, and the stars shine so bright that it reminds me of my semester in High Sierra.   The nights are usually quiet, except for the other night when my roommate, Elodie, woke everyone up in the middle of the night screaming.  It turns out the village cat was on the roof of our hut and fell through, landing right on top of her!  I thought someone was attacking her, but when I found out that Rabosy fell on her, I couldn’t stop laughing.

A couple other exciting things have happened in Maventibao.  I have had pork twice a day for the past week because a couple volunteers were craving it.  This resulted in them walking 9 kilometers to Abutymufa to buy a pig.  They then decided to walk the pig up the 9-kilometer hill back to Maventibao.  The pig was then killed and roasted.  I am so glad that I did not go with them to get Patsy (as they named her), otherwise I probably would have grown somewhat attached to her and probably would have turned vegetarian right then and there.

Another crazy thing that happened was when Ben’s pet lemur bit him.  This resulted in Ben getting an infection, so he had the Medicine Man come for a visit.  I was able to see the Medicine Man perform a spiritual healing.  Basically the Medicine man went into a trance, then made three incisions on Ben’s body, sucked out the blood through each of them and then spit out the “poison” into a bowl of rum.   Rum was drunken before and after each incision he made and he went through at least four cigarettes.  The medicine man is often called when someone in the village believes that someone has put a “gris-gris”, or curse, on them.  A lot of Malagasy people believe that sickness is often a result of being cursed by someone else. 

The clinics have been going really well.  I have been learning a lot, and love that I have had the opportunity of shadowing two UK volunteer doctors.  I am sad that they have left for home, but look forward to what is to come.  Cases I have seen in the clinic range from syphilis and malaria to viral gastroenteritis and dehydration.  There was a recent scorpion sting, but thank goodness it seems to not have been poisonous one.  I have enjoyed researching preventative medicine in Maventibao.  It is fascinating to learn how modern medicine and traditional medicine have complemented each other well in the village of Maventibao.

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Maventibao!



The view from my window
Ray, the pet lemur

Maventibao

A lizard I found in my hut

A family hut

Maventibao Village

I have spent the last week in Maventibao Village!  It has been quite an experience.  I rode the taxi brousse from Diego Suarez to Abutymufa, which is definitely a day trip!  The taxi brousse, which is basically a bus, fills up with as many people as it can before it makes the 3-hour journey to Abutymufa.  I then had a 5-mile uphill hike to Maventibao.  I enjoyed the scenery during the hike, and even crossed a creek in which we had to look out for crocodiles.  Nono assured me that they usually see the crocodiles in the early morning, so we should not have to worry.

I finally made it to the village and am enjoying my time there.  I am living in a hut and have a beautiful view from my window.  Maventibao is located in the mountains and the view of the mountains is absolutely gorgeous.  I have been enjoying the simplicity that Maventibao offers.  I hardly look at my watch and basically have no Internet access in the village.  There is a small hike to the stream, where you can get fresh water.  I enjoy the hike because you occasionally see a chameleon or snake, not to mention that you can see miles of nothing but untouched land.  I feel as though Maventibao is the ideal village.  They have access to clean water, there is a clinic nearby, and a school just opened up.  The clinic and school are free and from what I gather from my conversation from one of the villagers, the people seem very happy to live in Maventibao. 

I am also enjoying my time in the clinic.  There are two UK medical students (practically doctors) here.  It has been great shadowing them, as well as Daniel, who has been working at the clinic for the past two years.  I feel as though I have been learning so much!  On Wednesday and Friday we travel to other villages 3-5 miles away, and it is quite a walk!  I enjoy the hike, but could do without the thorns that get stuck in your feet like splinters that come from walking through the brush! 

I am currently in Diego Suarez, about to visit the Amber Mountains.  I am excited to camp there and hope to see some more wildlife!